Syue Mountain (Mt. Snow): A Guide to Taiwan's Second-Highest Peak and the Hidden Gem of Cuei Pond
Syue Mountain, also known as Xueshan or Snow Mountain, truly lives up to its name. In winter, its snow-covered peak sometimes stands proudly in tropical Taiwan. Its striking beauty of vast glacier cirques and challenging terrain has charmed hikers worldwide, making it one of Taiwan's most sought-after high-altitude adventures.
In 2017, I set out to explore Xueshan but only made it to the East Peak. That unfinished journey lingered in my mind for years. Finally, in September 2024, I reached Xueshan's Main Peak—and the long wait was worth it.
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Table of Contents:
- Trail Information: The Most Popular Route - Xueshan Main and East Peak
- Maps, How to Get There with Public Transportation, and Accommodation
- How to Apply for the Permits to Hike Xueshan and Snow Season Regulations
- Easier Route: Details about Hiking Xueshan Main and East Peak
- Challenging Route: Hiking Further to Cuei Pond to Camp
- About Snow Mountain (Xueshan) and Shei-Pa National Park
- Related Posts
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Trail Information: The Most Popular Route - Xueshan Main and East Peak
Distance: 21.8 km (13.5 miles)
Route type: Out and back
Days/Hours Needed: 2 days (some hikers do this in one day)
Total Ascent/Descent: 1,718m/1,674m
Snow Season Requirements: This trail is good to hike almost all year round. Yet, the snow season often starts from mid-December/January to March. Shei-Pa National Park requires training and extra gear if you hike in the snow season.
Permits: Required
Additional Information: Before your hike, please check Shei-Pa National Park Climbing Forums 雪霸國家公園登山資訊分享站 to see if the trail is open or other things that you need to know.
Difficulty Level:
Route type: Out and back
Days/Hours Needed: 2 days (some hikers do this in one day)
Total Ascent/Descent: 1,718m/1,674m
Snow Season Requirements: This trail is good to hike almost all year round. Yet, the snow season often starts from mid-December/January to March. Shei-Pa National Park requires training and extra gear if you hike in the snow season.
Permits: Required
Additional Information: Before your hike, please check Shei-Pa National Park Climbing Forums 雪霸國家公園登山資訊分享站 to see if the trail is open or other things that you need to know.
Difficulty Level:
Peaks to Reach
- Mt. Syue, Xueshan, Mt. Snow, or Mt. Sylvia Main Peak 雪山主峰, 3,886 meters (12,749 feet) above sea level.
- Mt. Xue East Peak, Xueshan East Peak 雪山東峰, 3,201 meters (10,502 feet) above sea level.
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Maps, How to Get There with Public Transportation, and Accommodation
Xueshan/Wuling Farm Free Bus Guide
Here's a flowchart about how you get to Wuling Farm or the trailhead.
You take Kuokuang Bus 1751 from Yilan Transfer Station, or Kuokuang Bus 1764 from Luodong Transfer Station, and get off at Wuling Visitor Center. Taking Kuokuang Bus 1751 or 1764 is easier than bus 866.
Hire A Private Pickup
If you don't want to walk an extra of 11 km (0.7 miles) to the trailhead, you can stay at Wuling Hostel near Wuling Farm and hire their private pickup service to the Xueshan trailhead. Contact Mr. Huang WhatsApp +886 (0) 983328960 for details.
GPX Track
The following track includes hike to Cuei Pond.
Route map for Xueshan Main, East Peak And Cuei Pond 20240903 by Anusha Lee on plotaroute.com
Click Menu in the map to download, print, or share the map.
You can see more options after clicking the Play button.
Click
to change the speed to meet your condition.
You can see more options after clicking the Play button.
Click
to change the speed to meet your condition.
How to Apply for the Permits to Hike Xueshan and Snow Season Regulations
Advanced Applications Are Only Available at Qika Hut.
If you want to stay at Sanliujiu (369) Temporary Campground, you can only go through the regular application. Please remember to send your application to Hike Smart Taiwan Service 臺灣登山申請一站式服務網 between 7:00 - 23:00 (GMT+8).
Since "Hike Smart Taiwan Service" has been improved and made more straightforward, I have only included a short video and take the Yushan application as an example to help you understand how to use the website. Hiking Xueshan doesn't require a police permit.
Itinerary you need for your hike:
Day 1: Syue Mountain Trailhead ➔ Qika Hut ➔ Syue Mountain East Peak ➔ Sanliujiu Temporary Campground
Day 2: Sanliujiu Temporary Campground ➔ Syue Mountain Main Peak ➔ Sanliujiu Temporary Campground ➔ Syue Mountain East Peak ➔ Syue Mountain Trailhead
Day 1: Syue Mountain Trailhead ➔ Qika Hut ➔ Syue Mountain East Peak ➔ Sanliujiu Temporary Campground
Day 2: Sanliujiu Temporary Campground ➔ Syue Mountain Main Peak ➔ Sanliujiu Temporary Campground ➔ Syue Mountain East Peak ➔ Syue Mountain Trailhead
Please do your homework before you hike those popular trails. Several local governments have specific regulations for activities in mountain areas. Please read the post Essential Guide to Hiking Regulations in Taiwan to avoid unnecessary hefty fines.
Gear for Snow Season
The snow season is usually between mid-December/January and March. Shei-Park National Park has requirements for hikers during snow season.
The gear list from Shei-Pa National Park during snow season: a helmet, hiking boots and crampons (at least 10 points), gaiters, an ice axe, a headlamp, snow goggles, warm & waterproof clothing, wool socks, waterproof gloves, and other essentials.
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Easier Route: Details about Hiking Xueshan Main and East Peak
You might be curious why we started early on Day 1 since the hike takes around 6 hours. The main reason is that thunderstorms and torrential rains are typical in the mountains during the summer. Getting caught up in the rain is not fun, and the good weather usually turns overcast around noon.
Day 1: Start the Hike from the Famous Water Reservoir near Xueshan (Syue Mountain) Park Entry Permit Check-in Counter
06:30 We arrived at the Xueshan Park Entry Permit Check-in Counter 雪山登山口服務站, 2,140 meters above sea level. This checkpoint opens at 7:00, so we put our permits in the mailbox. You will find toilets here. You can use the app to check in, but that didn't work for me.
06:42 After getting ready, we started our hike and passed the famous water reservoir.
You will find a detailed map of the Shengleng Trail (Holy Ridge Trail) and posts of millage. The distance to Qika (Cika) Hut is 2 km, to Sanliujiu Hut is 7.1 km, and to Xueshan Main Peak (Mt. Syue) is 10.9 km.
The first 2 km are easy to hike and paved with many stairs. We ran into a Formosan serow 台灣長鬃山羊 grazing the grass. It seemed not bothered or scared by us. We saw another one later.
We saw a small bridge above a track. The track was built to transport the materials for the new Sanliujiu Cabin.
07:38 We arrived at Qika Cabin or (Cika Hut) 七卡山莊, 2,460 meters above sea level. If you stay here, please check in with the manager when you arrive.
Qika Cabin is big and can accommodate 106 hikers. It has bunk beds, a kitchen and dining area, flushed toilets, and a drying room. We took a 20-minute break and continued our journey.
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09:53 We reached the resting area before Ku Po (Ku Slope) at around 4 km and took a 15-minute break to enjoy the views. Ku Po literally means Crying Slope in Chinese. So, you get the idea about this section.
10:45 We reached the top of the hill at around 4.3 km and entered the woods.
360-degree View from Xueshan East Peak
11:11 We reached the 5 km post, where the first junction to Xueshan East Peak, 3,201 meters, which could be seen from the junction, too.
The views from Xueshan East Peak were fantastic, and we were surrounded by Xueshan Main Peak, Beilengjiao, the Holy Ridge, Mt. Dabajian, Wuling Quadruple Mountains, and other 100 Peaks. We could even see Yushan from the top. We stayed for 30 minutes to enjoy the views from the summit.
Our destination, Sanliujiu (369) Temporary Campground, seemed close to Xueshan East Peak, but, in fact, it wasn't. The circled area on the top of the photo is the construction work for the new Sanliujiu Cabin. The one on the bottom is the temporary campground.
After passing the helipad next to Xueshan East Peak, we entered the woods again, and the trail was up and down.
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Sanliujiu Temporary Campground
12:34 We reached the junction of the old Sanliujiu Cabin. Shei-pa National Park is renovating a new cabin, so hikers stayed at the temporary campground set up by the national park.
12:52 Getting to the Sanliujiu Temporary Campground was taxing because we had to go up and downhill again, which descended about 200 meters. Seeing your destination but not being able to call it a day sooner tested my willpower. Finally, we arrived.
When you arrive, remember your permit's plank number. Each plank has a number, and most hikers hire the on-site catering service. You might be able to switch the plank.
There are toilets, a kitchen area, and water tanks to draw water.
We had to go to the woods near the toilets facing east to get one or two bars of phone signals, but the view here was worth the extra walk.
Day 2: From Sanliujiu Campground to Taiwan White Fir Forest
At first, we planned to see the sunrise from Xueshan Main Peak. However, reaching the summit from the campground took at least 3 to 4 hours, and we had to get up around 1 am to catch the sunlight. So, we decided to sleep longer and woke up at 4 am to prepare.
But in hindsight, i's better to leave around 3 am and reach the summit before 9 am.
05:07 We left the campground when the sun was rising from the clouds. We stopped before entering the black forest to see the dazzling colors above the clouds.
05:59 We entered the forests at around 7.9 km and were amazed by the Taiwan White Fir 台灣冷杉. It's Taiwan White Fir, but we call this forest Black Forest 黑森林 in Taiwan. My hiking mate was from Oregon, United States, and he said the forests looked like what they have in Oregon.
06:53 At 8.9 km, we reached a post with signs pointing to Mt. Syue, Water, and Sanliujiu Hut. This place may look like a great camping spot, but wild camping is prohibited.
The Xueshan Cirques
07:52 We reached the cirque at 9.8 km. This place was vast. I've seen Xueshan from a distance for years and finally arrived here in person.
When we reached the 9.9 km post, the trail cutting into the cirques was blocked. We took the trail on the left instead.
The trail was covered by rocks from there, but this wasn't too bad. The rock scrambles to Cuei Pond are much worse.
My pace became slower because of the big backpack. Most hikers carry light from Sanliujiu Campground and return, but we also need to go to Cuei Pond to camp.
When I approached the summit, clouds flowed over the cirque and the summit. I was concerned that I would miss the great weather.
Stunning Sunrise and Looking at Holy Ridge and Turtle Island from Xueshan Main Peak
09:31 Finally, I reached Syue Mountain, or Xueshan Main Peak, 3,886 meters above sea level. The clouds did threaten to take over the blue sky, but the strong winds pushed them aside.
The Holy Ridge and layers of mountains in the distance were like playing hide-and-seek. I also saw the famous Mt. Dabajian.
When the clouds cleared up slightly from the ocean in the east, Turtle Island, around 90 km (56 miles) away, appeared.
Please note that you must get up around 1 a.m. if you want to see the sunrise from Xueshan Main Peak. The hike to the summit takes at least 3 to 4 hours.
Return to the Trailhead and Check Out
If you only hike to the summit, you can hike light with essential gear from the Sanliujiu Temporary Campground, return to the campground, and then hike back to the trailhead. It takes around 6-8 hours from the summit to the trailhead, depending on your pace.
When you arrive at the trailhead, remember to go to the Xueshan Park Entry Permit Check-in Counter again to check out.
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Challenging Route: Hiking Further to Cuei Pond to Camp
The Highest Alpine Lake in Taiwan: Cuei Pond, also spelled as Cui or Ts'ui Pond
Distance: 25 km (15.5 miles)
Route type: Out and back
Days/Hours Needed: Pond: 3 days
Total Ascent/Descent: 2,456m/2,459m
Permits: Required. Check permit appliction section.
Difficulty Level:
Route type: Out and back
Days/Hours Needed: Pond: 3 days
Total Ascent/Descent: 2,456m/2,459m
Permits: Required. Check permit appliction section.
Difficulty Level:
This is a three-day hike and you need to apply for Cuei Pond Hut or Cuei Campground on your Day 2.
If you hike further to Cuei Pond like us, remember the following sections are more challenging and not suitable for people who don't like heights.
Continue from our hike to Xueshan Main Peak. Before we left the Xueshan Main Peak, a Formosan serow suddenly appeared at a cliff. I've seldom seen so many Formosan serows in one hike, and their poops are almost everywhere on the trail. They are not afraid of humans at all. I hope it's because they are getting used to being fed by hikers.
The following section from the Xueshan Main Peak to the junction of Cuei Pond and Beilengjiao is steep, and the trail is narrow. It felt like I could easily fall to my death if I lost my footing.
I became very nervous and intense and decided to give up climbing Beilengjiao. My hiking mate went there with the other two hikers we met. The round trip takes about one hour.
Exhaustion overtook me while waiting for my hiking mate to return, and I almost dozed off. This junction was not a good place to doze off, though.
Steep Rock/Sand Scrambles to Cuei Pond
11:54 My hiking mate returned safely and continued our descent to Cuei Pond. While clouds began forming in the Xueshan cirques, the clouds and fog were thicker in the valley on the opposite side.
If the section between the Xueshan Main Peak and the junction to Cuei Pond was horrible, this rock-scramble slope was even worse. Most sections were gravels and rocks, and I couldn't find footing. I kept sliding and was scared.
My hiking mate strode down quickly and effortlessly while I struggled and slid on the rock scrambles. He later shared his technique for dealing with gravels sand and rocks: He first loosened the backpack's load stabilizers to shift the gravity further. Then, he first hit the gravel slope with his heel to increase friction and prevent himself from sliding.
Our Hike to Cuei Pond
12:46 After what felt like forever, I finally finished the steep slope and went into a flatter rock scramble area. More tall, beautiful forests appeared, and we reached the forest of Single-seed Juniper 玉山圓柏.
Unlike the short and crooked Single-seed Junipers scattering in the Xueshan cirques, these were thick, tall, and straight. The valley had shielded them from the relentless wind and harsh weather.
13:02 Finally, I reached Cuei Pond Hut, and my hiking mate had been waiting for me for a while. If you stay at the Cuei Pond Hut, you must walk further to reach the front door.
Only 4 hikers were staying by Cuei Pond that day. We found a quiet place to pitch our tents. Be aware of small wild animals stealing your food. We saw several around our tents.
My First Slope Ascending Faster than Descending
Usually, descending will be faster than ascending. Yet, our return to the junction took around 90 minutes, while it took me more than 2 hours to descend. The scary rock scrambles really got me.
Yet, the section from the junction back to Xueshan Main Peak was still scary, even though I couldn't see the vast cirque in the dark.
About the Names of Snow Mountain (Xueshan) and Shei-Pa National Park
Xueshan might be the mountain that owns the most different names in Taiwan. Here's a brief list of where those names came from, according to a hiking database website, Hiking Biji.
From the Indigenous Atayal People
The Snow Mountain region has been a hunting ground for the indigenous Atayal people, who have various names for it.
Babo Hagai 巴布哈蓋山 or Hagai 哈蓋山 is used by the Atayal people living on the eastern slopes of Snow Mountain. "Babo" means big mountain, and "Hagai" refers to snow collapses (I assume they refer to avalanches.)
In the Atayal language, Snow Mountain is also known as "Mahamayan 馬哈馬顏山," which can be translated as "Mahamayan Mountain."
On the western slopes of Snow Mountain, the Atayal people of the Beishi tribe 北勢部族泰雅族 call it "Sekoan," meaning "rock wall furrows." It's phonetically translated as "Xuegaoweng" and later simplified to "Xueweng Mountain" or "Snow Mountain."
From the Qing Dynasty
In 1893, during the reign of Emperor Guangxu, Shen Maoyin, the governor of Miaoli at the time, depicted Snow Mountain as the fifth of "Eight Scenic Views of Miaoli" by writing "Yu Shan Ji Xue 玉山霽雪," literally meaning glistening snow that made the mountain look like jade. The Jade Mountain here refers to Snow Mountain or Xueshan, not Yushan.
From the British Captain
In 1867, while passing through Taiwan's waters, the British warship HMS Sylvia reportedly spotted the towering Snow Mountain. The ship's captain named the mountain "Sylvia." In early Western literature, it was referred to as Mt. Sylvia.
From the Japanese Colonial Period
During the Japanese colonial period in Taiwan in 1915, surveyors, including Hisakatsu Toshitsune 財津久平, successfully reached the summit of Snow Mountain's main peak via the eastern ridge of the East Peak. They measured its height as 12,972 feet, discovering it was taller than Japan's Mount Fuji.
In 1923, Prince Hirohito (Emperor Showa) visited Taiwan and named Snow Mountain the "Second Highest Mountain in Taiwan 次高山" just after Mount Jade (Yushan, the New Highest Mountain). The long-gone Second Highest Shrine was established at the summit, with a shrine gate and torii.
About Cuei Pond:
According to the National Park Service Ministry of the Interior website, Cuei Pond is a tarn, a small mountain lake or pond, typically found nestled in a steep, bowl-shaped area formed by glaciers called a cirque.
The width of Cuei Pond is less than 30 meters (98 feet), and sitting by the pond is a lovely escape for hikers.
Hikers who visited Cuei Pond before July 2021 would see a small earth god temple, the highest one in Taiwan, by the side of the highest alpine lake, Cuei Pond. However, Shei-Pa National Park relocated this temple to a lower altitude in fear of possible forest fire.
You will see the fantastic Single-seed Juniper 玉山圓柏 around here. Those stunning trees are largely distributed in the alpine tundra more than 3,400 meters above sea level. They are a major member of the dwarf shrub that grows above the timberline and are extremely important to soil and water conservation.
When striving to adapt to a harsh natural environment, some that grow on the slopes exposed to the cutting winds shape in various postures at high mountains, like the famous one near Mt. Xiangyang.
About Cuei Pond Hut/Campsite 翠池山屋/營地
With an elevation of 3,510 meters (11,516 feet), Cuei Pond Hut can accommodate 12 hikers and the campsite 20. The phone signal is not good. Hikers can draw water from Cuei Pond and filter the water.
The phone reception is not good here. I had to take the same trail to a higher slope to send text messages, but my hiking mate had 2 bars near the Cuei Pond toilets.
Other More Challenging Routes - Jhihjiayang (Zhijiayang) Xueshan Route 志佳陽雪山線
In 1915, during the Japanese era, a survey team led by Kazuhiro Izutsu 財津久平 ventured from Pyanan Village (now Nanshan Village 南山村) through the Puyuma Saddle (now Siyuan Saddle 思源啞口), Chi Jia Yang Village (now Sqoyaw or Huanshan Village 環山部落) to Mt. Zhijiayang (3,345 meters/10,974 feet) and finished the survey.
Since then, this route became a major one to explore Xueshan till the 1970s. The new route replaced this route, the current Xueshan Major and East Peak route, in the 1970s. Some hikers still take the Jhihjiayang Route to enjoy the rugged terrain and stunning landscape.
This route takes at least 3 days.
Other More Challenging Routes - Holy Ridge (Shengleng) Trail Route
In 1927, the renowned Japanese mountaineer Numai Tetsutaro 沼井鐵太郎 made the first ascent of the majestic Dabajian Mountain in Taiwan. As he stood on the summit, gazing southward at the winding, dragon-like ridge that stretched all the way to the pinnacle of Xueshan, he couldn't help but exclaim, "This holy ridge! Who can truly complete the traverse from Dabajian to Xueshan, don the crown of victory, and narrate the genuine beauty of this first-ever achievement?"
Three years later, he fulfilled his dream by conquering this Holy Ridge, and the name Holy Ridge or Sheng Leng in Chinese has endured ever since.
Holy Ridgeline Trail has 3 routes: Y Route, I Route, and O Route (loop), ranging from 5 to 9 days. There are several strenuous sections. Those routes are only for very seasoned and fit hikers. I love solo hikes, but I don't recommend doing solo hikes on the Holy Ridge.
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All content provided is for inspirational and informational purposes only. Creating, using, hiking, or traveling with Taiwan Hikes' suggested services or itineraries is at your own risk. Please use your best judgment and follow all safety precautions, as Taiwan Hikes and Anusha Lee are not liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from using this information.
Please also note that Taiwanese government agencies tend to change their URLs without bothering to redirect to the new ones. As a result, you will find some external sites on the Taiwan Hikes website are not working from time to time. Taiwan Hikes will try to update those URLs if possible.
Taiwan Hikes is not responsible for the content of external sites.