Central Path of the Tamsui - Kavalan Trail: 4-Day End-to-End Hiking Guide
The Tamsui-Kavalan Historic Trails (Dan-Lan) (淡蘭古道) are among the most popular long-distance hiking routes in
northern Taiwan, with many guides covering individual sections. My personal favorite is the Central Path
(淡蘭古道中路), also known as the Commoners' Path (民道).
This route stands out for its rich history and quiet beauty—ancient stone paths, old houses, Earth God
shrines, and forest trails where creeks flow alongside the route.
I've hiked many sections of the Central Path over the years, but this post documents something different:
walking the Central Path in a single continuous journey. Since wild camping is not widely welcomed in Taiwan,
and to respect local communities, I don't share specific camping locations here.
Instead, this guide focuses on trail highlights, overall route planning, public transport access, and how to
break the trail into day hikes. If you're looking for a permit-free, flexible multi-day hike in northern
Taiwan, this post will help you understand what it takes to complete the Central Path in one go.
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Table of Contents:
- Trail Overview: The Central Path of Tamsui-Kavalan Historic Trails and Maps
- What to Know About Wild Camping in Taiwan and Leave No Trace (LNT)
- Walking the Central Path End to End: A 4-Day Itinerary
- Alternative Options: Splitting the Central Path into Day Hikes
- Getting There and Back: Public Transportation Tips
- Practical Tips: Weather, Gear, Physical Fitness, and Preparation
- Digital Guide: 2026 Best Permit-Free Hiking Trails in Taiwan (By Public Transport)
- Related Posts
Trail Overview: The Central Path of Tamsui-Kavalan Historic Trails and Maps
Trail Name: The Central Path of Tamsui-Kavalan Historic Trails (Danlan
Trail)
Distance: 60 km (37.3 miles)
Route type: Point-to-point, with a loop section in the middle portion
Days/Hours Needed: 4 days is the most accessible and enjoyable pace for most hikers.
Best Time to Go: Early spring, autumn, or winter, when the weather is cooler and less humid.
Permits: Not required
Difficulty Level:
Distance: 60 km (37.3 miles)
Route type: Point-to-point, with a loop section in the middle portion
Days/Hours Needed: 4 days is the most accessible and enjoyable pace for most hikers.
Best Time to Go: Early spring, autumn, or winter, when the weather is cooler and less humid.
Permits: Not required
Difficulty Level:
The Central Path is made of 18 trails across Keelung,
Pingxi, Shuangxi (New Taipei City), and Wai-ao (Yilan County). Most of the trails are easy to hike, and many
follow creeks through shaded forest, making the route enjoyable even during warmer seasons.
You can find the detailed map from the official Tamsui-Kavalan Historic
Trails made by the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Headquarters of Tourism
Administration. The official website also provides historical background and stories behind each trail
section.
What to Know About Wild Camping in Taiwan and Leave No Trace (LNT)
According to Taiwan's law, wild camping is PROHIBITED in the following protected areas, and
violations may result in fines.
- All 9 national parks and the national nature park, except at designated campgrounds (permits required)
- 22 nature reserves
- 21 wildlife refuges and 39 major wildlife habitats
- 6 forest reserves
Together, these protected areas cover approximately 12,107 ㎢, or about 19% of Taiwan's total land area,
excluding overlapping and marine zones.
Setting a campfire, using camping stoves or gas canisters in the protected areas listed above is also
prohibited.
This does not mean wild camping is automatically allowed outside protected areas. Much of the land in Taiwan
is privately owned, and landowners may not welcome hikers camping on their property.
If you choose to camp, please follow LNT, Leave No Trace, principles carefully.
- Plan Ahead and Prepare.
- Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces.
- Dispose of Waste Properly.
- Leave What You Find.
- Minimize Campfire Impacts.
- Respect Wildlife.
- Be Considerate of Others.
Walking the Central Path End to End: A 4-Day Itinerary 檢查到這
I first completed the Central Path over three days, then returned several times to walk the sections I had
missed. Based on those experiences, I've outlined four practical ways to hike the Central Path—a 4-day
end-to-end walk, 3-day and 2-day trimmed options, and flexible day hikes.
Each option is designed to balance distance, daylight, safety, and enjoyment, and all can be paired with
public transportation to make planning and logistics smoother.
That said, trail conditions can change. Careful planning, proper preparation, and personal safety remain your
responsibility when hiking the Central Path.
Day 1 Itinerary: From Nuandong Valley to Shihfen
Brief itinerary: Nuannuan Train Station 暖暖車站 or Keelung Train Station 基隆車站 ➔ Nuandong
Valley/Lapopo Campground (bus stop) 暖東峽谷/拉坡坡村 ➔ Old Nuandong Trail (Nuandong Historical Trail) 暖東舊道
➔ Junction to Wufenshan Meteorological Radar Observatory 五分山氣象站, Lingtou Earth God Temple 嶺頭土地公廟, and
Mt. Dingzhiliao 頂子寮山 ➔ XPX Taiwan Coal Mine Museum/Yumei Trail (Coal transporting Trail) ➔
Shihfen
Estimated hiking time: 5-6 hours (excluding side trips to waterfalls)
Hiking from Nuandong Valley to Old Nuandong Trail
Take a train to Nuannuan or Keelung Station, then transfer to Bus 603 (Dongshih Keng line). Get off at
Nuandong Valley Stop (暖東峽谷) and start hiking directly from the bus stop.
The hike begins on the Nuandong Valley Trail, marked TK2-2 on the map, a gentle, scenic path that follows a
creek through lush forest. This section is easy to walk and serves as a relaxed warm-up. Soon, the trail
transitions into stone steps leading up to the Old Nuandong Trail, TK2-3, also known as the Nuandong Historic
Trail.
You might be wondering where TK2-1 is located. If you walk from Nuannuan Train Station to the Nuandong Valley
Stop instead of taking the bus, you will arrive at TK2-1.
Junction Area: Wufenshan Trail, Temples, and Viewpoints
After approximately 1 km, you'll reach a junction connecting to the Wufenshan Trail. Near this junction,
you'll find: Lingtou Earth God Temple 嶺頭土地公廟 / 福德宮 and Mt. Dingzhiliao 頂子寮山.
This area offers occasional open views and is a good spot for a short break.
You'll see a sign pointing to the Wufenshan Trail, TK2-4. Do not follow the Wufenshan direction. Continue
straight along the Central Path instead. You should see the XPX Taiwan Coal Mine Museum very soon.
Coal Transporting Trail: XPX Museum and Yumei Trail
Continuing forward, you'll pass the XPX Taiwan Coal Mine Museum and reach the Yumei Trail 運煤道, TK2-5, aka Coal
Transporting Trail, a former coal railway. Parts of this section follow old rail tracks.
Safety reminder: Tourist trains may still operate on this line. Stay alert, listen carefully, and give
trains the right of way at all times.
Look for a pink warning sign and a yellow directional arrow—follow the arrow to exit the railway section and
reach a paved road.
Arrival in Shihfen
After about 15 minutes on a paved road, you'll arrive in Shihfen, famous for its sky lanterns and historic
railway town atmosphere. If you're considering releasing a lantern, be sure to read up on environmental and
safety concerns beforehand.
Where to Stay & Side Trips
- Numerous B&Bs in Shihfen make it a convenient overnight stop.
- Walk to Shihfen Waterfall, one of the most famous waterfalls in northern Taiwan.
- For a quieter alternative, visit Wanggu Waterfall 望谷瀑布 near Wanggu Station 望谷車站.
Walk around 15 minutes, and you will arrive in Shihfen, the place famous for the sky lanterns. Before you
think about releasing a lantern, please read this post first.
You can also find another lovely waterfall, Wanghu Waterfall, near Wangu Station 望谷車站.
Day 2 Itinerary: Shihfen to Ganjiao
Brief itinerary: Shihfen ➔ Fanzikeng Hiking Trail 番子坑步道 ➔ Pinghu West Hiking Trail 平湖西步道
➔ Pinghu East Hiking Trail 平湖東步道 ➔ Dakeng Mountain Ridge Trail 大坑山稜線步道 ➔ Shannei Pinglin
Hiking Trail 上內平林步道 (Note) ➔ Ganlin Weihui Temple in Ganjiao 柑腳威惠廟
Estimated hiking time: 7-8 hours, including a round trip of about 1 hour to Shihfen Waterfall
(optional)
When I first did this hike, my friends and I took a taxi from Shihfen to Ganjiao and stayed overnight there. I
later returned to hike this entire section on a separate day. In hindsight, taking a taxi was a good
decision—hiking from Nuandong Valley all the way to Ganjiao in one day would be overly demanding for most
hikers.
Where to Stay in Ganjiao
While staying in Ganjiao, I walked along the river and explored the area.
- Plein Soleil Coffee Roasters 柑腳驛站: A café and B&B with comfortable dorm beds, friendly hosts, and excellent coffee. The hosts speak English, too. I'm not affiliated with this place, but it's a great option if you enjoy good coffee and a relaxed atmosphere.
- Shuangxi Mountain Mingshui Homestay 雙溪山明水舍民宿: A good alternative if you prefer a private room.
Ganjiao is a relatively populated area. Thus, I recommend that hikers stay at a B&B instead of wild camping.
Hiking from Shihfen to Fanzikeng Trail
The trailhead of the Fanzikeng Hiking Trail, TK2-6, is not far from Shihfen. I've walked this trail three
times, and it remains one of my favorite sections of Day 2.
The path is well-defined, with steady climbs and pleasant views along the way, making it a rewarding start to
the day.
Pinghu West & Pinghu East Trails
After the Fanzikeng Trail, you'll connect to the Pinghu West (Pinghuxi) Trail, TK2-7, a relatively short
section that soon leads back to a paved road.
Before turning onto Pinghu East (Pinghudong) Trail, TK2-8, you'll find public toilets, which are a convenient
stop before continuing into more remote terrain.
Dakeng Mountain Ridge Trail
At the next junction, turn right into the dirt trail—this is the Dakeng Mountain Ridge Trail, TK2-9. Compared
to the earlier stone steps, this section is more rugged, but still manageable for hikers with basic mountain
experience.
I reached Dakeng Mountain and soon encountered a wide, barren slope. This area is known as Chipilun (赤皮崙).
Landslide Area & Safety Note (Important)
A section of the Shannei Pinglin Hiking Trail, TK2-10, including /a>the Chipilun area 赤皮崙, is prone to
landslides. When I hiked this route, the trail toward Juansi Waterfall 絹絲瀑布 was already closed. It was later
closed again due to another landslide.
If you choose this route:
- Expect temporary closures
- You may need to walk on paved roads for safety
- Always check recent trail conditions before starting
Because of these closures, I took the paved road instead and continued safely to Ganlin Weihui Temple in
Ganjiao, marking the end of Day 2.
Day 3 Itinerary: Ganjiao to Wantan / Taiping
About the loop: From Ganjiao, the Central Path splits into a loop. This hike follows the right half of
the loop toward Taiping 泰平. The left half—via Zhongkeng, Fangshankeng, and Kuolai Historic Trails—has multiple
landslide-prone sections and is often difficult to pass.
Trail Conditions on the Left Half
Several hikers have reported that landslides and difficult terrain frequently impact the following historic
trails on the left half of the loop:
- Zhongkeng Historic Trail (中坑古道), TK2-11
- Fangshankeng Historic Trail (枋山坑古道), TK2-12
- Kuolai Historic Trail (闊瀨古道), TK2-13
If you're planning a loop hike, always check recent trail conditions and be prepared to adjust your route.
The itinerary of the right half of the loop:
Brief itinerary: Ganjiao ➔ Bengshankeng Historic Trail ➔ Beishixi (Beishi River)
Historical Trail ➔ Sanshuitan (Sanshui Lake) and Earth God Temple ➔ Wantan Historic Trail
➔
Estimated hiking time: 7-8 hours
Ganjiao to Bengshankeng Historic Trail
The morning at Plein Soleil Coffee Roasters was tempting enough to stay another night, but the trail was
calling. From Ganjiao, we followed the paved road to the entrance of Bengshankeng Historic Trail, TK2-14. A
sign at the trailhead indicates 6,160 meters to Taiping, giving a clear sense of the day's distance.
Much of this section follows the Ganjiao River, making for a scenic and gentle start. Along the way, we passed
old houses and small Earth God temples, reminders of the communities that once relied on this route.
After entering the bamboo forest, we encountered a junction leading to a shortcut. We chose to try it—but it
turned out to be a mistake. This shortcut was not maintained for typhoons, with fallen trees and overgrown
vegetation, so we had to backtrack.
Later, while hiking with another couple, casual conversation led to two missed junctions, including the
turnoffs to Hubao Pond. This was a good reminder that on complex historic trails, navigation deserves full
attention.
I had hoped to revisit Hubao Pond, but we missed two key junctions. If you want to include Hubao Pond in your
hike, pay close attention around this area.
Hubao Pond is highly weather-dependent. Always check the river and rainfall
conditions before heading there.
Sanshuitan: Where Three Rivers Meet
From the junction area, we chose to walk on paved roads temporarily before rejoining the trail near a map
marker labeled TK2-15. We followed the signs toward the Sanshuitan Earth God Temple, about 3.4 km from that
point.
After passing a house with an address plate marked 26, we re-entered the trail and encountered multiple river
crossings.
Soon after, we passed a commemorative stone for Zhongzheng Bridge (中正橋) and entered one of the most memorable
sections of the entire hike: clear water, gentle curves in the river, small waterfalls, and a peaceful
atmosphere that made it hard not to stop.
Then, we passed a house and a bridge, 三水潭拱橋 (水管橋), and finally reached the Sanshuitan Earth God Temple.
Sanshuitan—literally “three waters”—is where the Beishi River and Wantan River merge. Facilities here are
limited; toilets were present but not functioning when we visited. Although the area may look suitable for
camping, locals may not welcome it, so I wouldn’t recommend staying overnight here.
That said, Sanshuitan is an excellent day-hiking destination, with a bus stop near the entrance to Beishixi
Historic Trail.
Final Section: Sanshuitan to Wantan
After a long break, we continued along the Wantan River, passing signage for the Wantan Section of the
Tamsui-Kavalan Historic Trail. The trail then climbed toward stairs marked Wushan Road, 3,600 meters.
At another junction with map marker TK2-16, signs pointed toward Wushan Cross-ridge Historic Trail (2,000 m)
near house No. 35. We passed a small vegetable stand run by a friendly auntie—if she's there, I highly
recommend buying one of her herbal drinks.
The Wantan Earth God Temple sits just around the corner. By this point, it was nearly 4 pm, and fatigue had
set in. We decided to take the last bus rather than continue on foot.
Don't Skip This Section If You Have Time
Although we skipped it that day, I highly recommend not missing the Wushan Cross-ridge Historic Trail
(TK2-17). It's one of the most impressive sections of the Central Path, and I later returned specifically to
complete it.
Day 3 rewards patience and flexibility—but it's also one of the most scenic and memorable parts of the Central
Path.
Day 4 Itinerary: Wantan to Wai-ao (via Wushan & Pingxi Historic Trails)
Brief itinerary: Wantan 灣潭 ➔ Wushan Yueling Historic Trail 烏山越嶺古道 ➔ Pingxi Historic Trail
坪溪古道 ➔ Shikong Historical Trail 石空古道 ➔ Junction to Mt. Taihe/Dingpingxi Earth God Temple
去太和山叉路口/頂坪溪福德祠 ➔ Mt. Taihe 太和山 ➔ Junction to Mt. Taihe 太和山叉路口 ➔ HuangJinLing Earth God
Temple 黃金嶺土地公廟 ➔ Wai-ao Train Station 外澳火車站
Estimated hiking time: 5-6 hours, including an optional out-and-back hike of about 1 hour to Mt. Taihe
Background: Why I Returned for This Section
After completing the Central Path as a thru-hike, I later came back to walk the section between Wantan and
Wai-ao at a slower pace. Much of this day's description is based on that later trip, which gave me more time
to enjoy the scenery and understand the trail conditions in detail.
Wantan to Wushan Cross-ridge Historic Trail
There's a short section of paved road between Wantan and the entrance to Wushan Cross-ridge Historic Trail
(TK2-17). It's easy to navigate, and according to the trail map, this stretch is only about 1.4 km.
Once on the trail, the terrain gently rises and falls. Dense, jungle-like vegetation makes this section feel
surprisingly exotic.
Soon, the trail reaches a river—a place that instantly brought back memories from my first visit in May 2020.
It's one of those sections I find myself returning to again and again, especially in summer, when the cool
water and shade offer relief from the heat.
After crossing the river and climbing stone steps back to the paved road, you'll pass a small Earth God
temple, and a house marked Wushan No. 54. Shortly after, at Wushan No. 62, hikers can find toilets.
An elderly couple runs a small drink stand here. If you stop, I strongly encourage you to buy something to
show your appreciation for their kindness in providing free toilet access, as it makes a real difference for
hikers.
Pingxi Historic Trail (TK2-18): Rivers and Cedars
After turning back toward the river and crossing a stone bridge, you'll reach the start of the Pingxi Historic
Trail (TK2-18).
This is where we camped during our thru-hike. If you stay nearby and wake up early enough, you may be rewarded
with a sunrise view of Turtle Island from the observation deck.
Pingxi Historic Trail is mostly flat and easy to walk, but it requires at least two river crossings.
If it has rained recently, do not risk crossing—water levels can rise quickly. Soon, you'll reach the most
famous section of this trail: a stunning corridor lined with tall Japanese cedar trees, one of the visual
highlights of the entire Central Path.
After another river crossing, you'll arrive at an observation deck overlooking the ocean and Turtle Island—an
excellent place to rest and enjoy the view. From here, the route continues onto the Shiking Historic Trail
(TK2-19).
Signage in this area can be confusing. When you reach the junction, take the right-hand trail. I made the
wrong turn here on my first visit.
Optional Side Trip: Mt. Taihe
As the trail becomes more rugged—but still manageable—you'll reach a junction leading to Mt. Taihe. A small
Earth God temple, Dingpingxi Temple, stands near the junction.
Curious, I decided to take the detour. The climb is steep, but the trail is well-maintained. It took me about
30 minutes to reach the summit, where you'll find Mt. Taihe Jin Temple (金殿).
The views from the top are excellent. If you prefer, Mt. Taihe can also be done as a separate out-and-back
hike from Wai-ao Train Station.
Final Descent to Wai-ao
After returning to the junction, I followed the paved road to Huangjinling Earth God Temple, where toilets are
also available.
From here, the trail toward Wai-ao becomes steep and rugged again, especially if you detour toward Mt. Wai-ao.
Expect a sustained climb before the final descent.
When Turtle Island comes back into view, Wai-ao Train Station is not far. Pay close attention near the
end—don't miss the final junction leading down to the station.
Why Day 4 Is a Perfect Ending
- Forest, river, and ocean views in one day
- Excellent public transport access at Wai-ao: we took the train to Yilan for dinner and the bus back to Taipei, saving a lot of time.
- Optional summit hike for those with extra energy
Day 4 feels reflective and rewarding—a fitting conclusion to walking the Central Path from the mountains to
the sea.
Alternative Options: Splitting the Central Path into Day Hikes
Getting There and Back: Public Transportation Tips
Practical Tips: Weather, Gear, Physical Fitness, and Preparation
Digital Guide: 2026 Best Permit-Free Hiking Trails in Taiwan (By Public Transport)
What now after you receive your hiking permit to Yushan and other high mountains?
Here's the thorough checklist that saves you 3+ hours of Googling.
With those checklists, you will know what to do for your hikes within 10 minutes:
- A schedule to apply for permits and arrange your transport, accommodation, and catering service
- What to do during your hike, and more
- Gear list suggestions
- Snow season and mountain regulations
- Weather, temperature, and typhoon warnings
